Gambian Griots find themselves under as much pressure to
pluck the right note in praise of the president as journalists to pen
Yahya Jammeh's praises.
One such
praise singer is Pa Bobo Jobarteh, whose family have been playing koras
- the 21-string African harp - since the 18th century. His
ancestors traditionally sang for kings and nobility. Now jalis - as
griots are known in The Gambia - are expected to compose for
politicians.
"It's
not easy for us now. We feel afraid to compose or to sing about
opposition politicians," says the 30-year-old musician.
President Jammeh, who came to power in a coup in 1994, has just won a
third term in office in the tiny West African country which keeps a
tight rein over the media and its critics.
Pa
Bobo's most popular song, Gambia Peace, Love and Unity, was commandeered
by the president for use in campaigning and he was kept busy during the
election period playing the kora at ruling party rallies.
Hot
water
A few
years ago, however, fellow musician Jaliba Kuyateh found himself in
unexpected hot water when an old song he composed for lawyer Ousainou
Darboe came back to haunt him.
Mr
Darboe entered the political ring in 1997 to become Mr Jammeh's foremost
rival with Jaliba's song as his anthem.
Jaliba
had to quickly compose several songs for the president to make political
amends.
"The
problem is that if you sing for the opposition, they say you're
opposition and that's not right. For jalis everyone's equal no matter if
you're opposition or the president," says Pa Bobo.
Today
jalis still rely on patronage to survive as they receive no royalties
from the work they record in The Gambia.
But it
is not just from politics that they make their living; the kora plays an
important part in all parts of cultural life.
"Without
us naming ceremonies cannot work; without us marriages cannot work and a
lot of other important things," Pa Bobo says.
Witnesses
He
agrees with the late Gambian kora player Jali Nyama Suso that a griot's
role in society is akin to that of a journalist.
"We
research people's history in order to praise them - like journalists. We
tell your histories, we tell you how your parents came here and which
people got married. We witness everything," he says.
Pa Bobo
has tasted some international success and has regularly played at the
UK's Womad global music festival since he was 11 years old.
But for
most of the time he lives in his large family compound in the town of
Brikama, home to Gambia's kora industry and to countless other jali
families.
They
mainly intermarry and the art of making and playing the instruments is
passed on from generation to generation.
In
concert, griots now use electric guitar heads on the koras, but most of
the instruments are made much as they were hundreds of years ago with
mahogany, cows' and goats' skins.
The only
nod to modernity are the fishing lines used instead of antelope skins
for the strings, which has given the sound a slight higher tone, and the
drawing pins used to decorate the gourd.
However,
Pa Bobo, who has two daughters and a son, intends to break with
tradition in one important respect.
"In a
traditional way you don't teach girls the kora, but that's not a good
idea.
"I see a
lot of women suffering in the marriage, so I have to teach my daughters
the kora to make their own way," he explains.
"Because
if you play the kora, you can always feed yourself."